Perfume News
Perfumer Josh Lobb over at Slumberhouse has created a new perfume called Zahd.
After two years in the making and 80 iterations only 125 ounces have been made, thus 125 bottles. Zahd is only available by pre-prder for the next 3 weeks. (UPDATE: Sold out in 24 hours). Please note that this release is also a funding exercise for Slumberhouse which I am happy to publish in support of this independant and interesting niche perfumer. Further information and full disclosure on that aspect is here.
Here is what Josh has to say about Zahd…
When creating a perfume, I find that the initial ‘on-switch’ in my brain happens when I come across a material which I find very evocative or inspiring. With Zahd, it was a fairly rare cranberry concrete which has all the beautiful facets of a fruity red note without being overly sweet or young. Cranberry has a sophisticated complexity to it which I found alluring – a mild, fruity and warm note that I began to conceptualize as the heart of a perfume. It was almost two years ago that work on this project began.
I wanted to think outside the box and find inspiration from things other than my own memories. I wanted to indulge in qualities that were unique to Slumberhouse and carried the perfume into territory that was both exotic and highly wearable. As I began creating the formula for Zahd, I realized I was subconsciously sculpting the scent to replicate how I felt crushed red velvet would smell if a fabric could be transformed into scent. I wanted something lush, opulent, alluring, completely gender neutral and ultimately mysterious. From this point I began incorporating other ideas involving heavier elements from traditional middle eastern perfumery to add both weight and complexity. Through trial and error, the necessary notes slowly revealed themselves to me.
Over the course of these two years I created roughly 80 prototypes of Zahd in my attempts to fine tune the fragrance to the smoothest, most rounded and perfected version of itself. In curating my materials palette, I realized that the addition of lotus, mysore sandalwood and an attar I commissioned specifically for Zahd had bumped this fragrance into not only the realm of excessive cost but also into being nearly impossible to replicate. Realizing that this would be a special release that I would only be able to offer in such a limited amount, it only made sense to offer Zahd for this occasion.
Notes
cranberry champaca flower benzoin plum pink lotus fir
cocoa tolu growl wine ether mysore sandalwood cherry
incense and oak to create a dark, velvety berry scent.
The perfume itself is a deep ruby red color and is concentrated at 30% to create an incredibly powerful and long lasting extrait.
Each bottle is 30ml, $US150. Once they are sold out this perfume will not be recreated.
Shipping will be in December in the new Slumberhouse bottle and packaging.
The above information was via a Slumberhouse Press Release
I have yet to smell this ‘fume but Josh is a niche perfumer that I watch with anticipation. He also publishes a blog if you are interested in his creative process. Luca Turin recently reviewed a Slumerhouse release called Norne in the first edition of his new column Message in a Bottle . Luca makes some pithy remarks about perfumery, niche perfume and Slumberhouse in his column.
I would imagine this release, Zahd, to be a great collector’s item or an excellent seasonal gift for a perfumista. Cranberry Christmas!
You can read more about Josh and his Slumberhouse dreams at the following locations:
OK, help me out please, dear Jordan. What is “growl”? Other than that, the notes seem really good. You may have just gotten your second enabler’s pin!
Hmm, just as well that I have several jackets! Thank you for the pin.
Growl is an amazing ingredient that will perforate your sensory receptors in such a way that everything you smell becomes heightened. Ha, I will find out factual and correct information shortly!
Growl is gromwell root… an obscure and bitter ingredient that isn’t often used in perfumery. Sounds very Josh.
Thanks for the info…I thought it would be some kind of alcohol as in “hair of the dog” or some such liquor 🙂
Completely sold out in 24 hours. Now I am the one growling with no growl!
Now a girl can only dream….
Hey there Jordan,
Thanks for the link love. I adore the Slumberhouse fragrances. It’s like FEARLESS fragrance for warriors. They are all so dense and hectic. I want this in my collection BADLY.
Portia x
I found this fearless perfumer via….
Australian Perfume Junkies way back in 2012. Did you read what Luca Turin had to say about Norne? This Zahd will be my Christmas Eve scent as I find Nuit de Noël, the traditional Perfumista fragrance far too feminine (lemming via APJ). My Mum is very happy though with Nuit de Noël.
Today I tried the Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (Spellin?) Christmas scent. It is very cedar, cinnamon and egg nog. YUMMY!!
BTW I love you Jordan, you are doing excellent work and i’m proud to be your friend,
Portia xx
Portia what is the name of that scent please? I know that Dawn has released a new scent each Christmas since 2001.
You are an encourager – thank you for your words of love. Love you more!
Sorry Jordan,
Natalie from Another Perfume Blog gave me a spritz of hers, it has Noel as the last word. Jump over and see her at her blog, she’ll tell you.
Portia xx
WOO HOO! Just did my pre order.
Portia xx
Completely sold out in 24 hours. Relying on you for review in due course at APJ.
WOW!! That is lucky that I jumped on it immediately.
How about I send you a couple of ml Jordan,
Portia x
Portia that is very thoughtful and gracious of you. I will say Yes please with alacrity and delight. On Yer!
Ok my! I’m a Slumberhouse junkie too. I love big fragrance and some of this line are beyond big. If I wasn’t going to Sniffa next week I’d would be buying this in a heartbeat.
Palooza! Have Big Fun.
What I love about Slumberhouse perfumes is that they feel like watching all Lord of the Rings films in one sitting: you have to be determined to follow the progression for hours and hours. You blink and you have lost something important that will be quoted later. Maybe they are not seamlessly blended but they are majestic and the focus is on rare ingredients and passion.
Quite a description Christos. I love a fragrant journey such as you describe above.
Thanks for the linkback! Have you smelled Zahd?
No, have you? It sold-out in 24 hours after this story. But some people must have as shipping was mid-Dec. Portia Turbo from APJ ordered some. I have sent just her an email. Great to hear from you Ron.
I got a sample with my Thanksgiving splurge. It is pretty amazing stuff. Do you know that classic violet candies by C Howard (google it) – its that kind of feeling but Cranberry instead… like a chalky sweet. I am trying to beg, borrow and steel a trade or second bottle form someone 🙂
Hmmm, hmmm, I can only say Happy Hunting. I wonder if anyone was able to order two bottles? They have not shipped yet for some unavoidable delay. Dude, which candle are you burning this year?
All Zahd bottles have now been shipped.
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