It was a thousand Perfume Years ago in September 2012 that Portia posted her review on Caron’s Nuit de Noel. While I thought the post to be oddly out of season I also imagined that this was what every Perfumista in the world wore on the eve of Christmas like a world-wide communion of scent. So I bought it and was thankful to have been alerted well ahead of time.
I did not trial the ‘fume when it arrived. I waited until Christmas Eve and then had a celebratory spritz or four. As much as I am all for gender fluidity with perfume fluids I found this to be too womanly for a man as butch as myself. Of course it would not scrub off. I have since learnt via Bois de Jasmin that as most perfumes contain alcohol then alcohol is what you need to scrub it off. Victoria Frolova also lists less harsh-on-the-skin methods. Jane Daly has another method suitable for womankind.
Now, Ernest Daltroff’s Nuit de Noel for Caron is truly beautiful (I like it more than Chanel No. 5 on a woman) and my Mum is thrilled to have a bottle which will last a lifetime of Christmas Eves. It is also the choice of Roja Dove and Karl Lagerfield for the night before Christmas. It does not smell of any scents traditionally associated with Christmas; it is its own special creation.
Victoria Frolova gives Nuit de Noel 5 stars and says…
Nuit de Noël was created in 1922 by Ernest Daltroff for his lover, Félicie Vanpouille, who loved Christmas Eve… it is a quiet, whispering fragrance, conjuring perfectly the silence and the serenity of the night before Christmas.
Bois de Jasmin
Indeed it did does speak of serenity and a silent night. I would review this as a perfume with radiant beams where…
all is calm
all is bright
For me, Nuit de Noel smells like a sophisticated woman in a fur coat (don’t shoot me, I am not wearing it, only writing about it), wearing Chanel N° 5, beautifully made up with dark lipstick and face powder, going to Midnight Mass, where the incense is heavy in the cold air. All these aspects unite to make up Nuit de Noel.
Barbara Herman author of Scent & Subversion has this to say…
Nuit de Noel is dismissed and beloved, it seems, in equal measure.
Kafka’s experience was on the dismissive side…
…the vintage may be very different, but the bottom line is that my version is nothing particularly special. It’s perfectly nice, nondescript and pleasant, but I don’t want “pleasant.” There are too many perfumes in the world for unenthused “pleasant.”
The Scented Hound found the Parfum Extrait in time for Christmas 2013.
Nuit de Noel opens with a surge of dry oak moss with hints of florals rising out of the from the mossy base.
… like putting on a fur-lined glove on a cold winters day.
I wish I could say that I could distinguish the florals in the fragrance, but they are blended so wonderfully that nothing sticks out. After some time, the oak moss dissipates and you’re left with this wonderfully creamy floral haze of a fragrance…
There are more comments below. It seems the vintage perfume is the way to go and definitely a sample size before a full bottle.
Ernest Daltroff was a self taught perfumer. He used a ready made perfumer’s base made by Marie Thérèse de Laire. This base is called the “Mousse de Saxe accord” and is comprised of geranium, anise, leather notes, iodine and vanillin. To this he added rose absolute, sandalwood, vetiver and oak moss of course, topped with jasmine and ylang-ylang head notes. The result was a soft oriental.
Required Reading for Perfumistas:
The “Mousse de Saxe” Base: Creation History, Notes, Influence on Perfumery by Elena Vosnaki at Perfume Shrine.
Nuit de Noel
Perfumer: Ernest Daltroff
Release date: 1922
Reformulation date: 2011
Classification: Soft Oriental
Head jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang,
Heart oak moss, sandalwood, vetiver
Base amber, Mousse de Saxe Accord, musk
Vintage collectors will need to know how to date Nuit de Noel bottles. The information is at Perfume Shrine along with images of 7 different flacons.
Over the next few nights I will be posting gift ideas for the holiday season to suit a range of budgets.
Do you share your passion for scent at this time of the year with your loved ones?
What do you intend to wear on Hanukkah, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day or for your own holiday celebrations? I would love to know and I am sure that the readers would like to know your choices too.
Twitterers and Tweeters can use the # tag #SOTNChristmas2013 , (being Scent of the Night Christmas 2013).
Nuit de Noel – Portia Turbo’s 2012 review
Bois de Jasmin – review & reformulation
Perfume Shrine – review & reformulation
Perfume Shrine – How to Date Caron Nuit de Noel bottles
Perfume Shrine – The “Mousse de Saxe” Base: Creation History, Notes, Influence on Perfumery
Olfactoria’s Travels – review
Yesterday’s Perfume – review
Scent & Subversion by Barbara Herman – book review about Vintage Perfume & the outer edges of 21st Century Perfumery
Kafkaseque – review en bref
The Scented Hound – buying experience and review
Scrubbers – what to do
Bois de Jasmin – How to Remove Unwanted Perfume
Jane Daly at Daly Beauty – How To Get Rid Of That Perfume You Just Tried That Is Giving You A Headache